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漫步香港之疯狂的面条

时间:2017-09-02 16:59:01   来源:    评论

漫步香港之疯狂的面条

From decades-old holes in the wall to multimillion dollar businesses, Hong Kong’s noodle scene is a money-spinner in a city that runs on quick and affordable comfort food.

从几十年前偏僻难寻的小铺子到数百万美元的企业,香港的面条店是这个追寻快速、实惠食品的城市里的摇钱树。

Steaming bowls are served up 24 hours a day, often in clear, richly flavored broths and topped with fishballs, beef tendon or pork knuckle.Other favorites come with Spam and fried eggs, an echo of the city’s British colonial past.

通常在干净的、香味弥漫的肉铺里,热气腾腾的食物每天24小时供应着,上面放着鱼丸、牛筋或猪蹄。其他最受欢迎的是罐头猪肉和煎蛋,这是这座城市作为曾经英国殖民时代的回声。

Lau Fat-cheong is one of the last traditional noodle makers in Hong Kong. He prepares them fresh every day for customers at his three Lau Sum Kee restaurants in the bustling working-class neighborhoods of Sham Shui Po and Cheung Sha Wan.

刘德昌是香港最后一家传统面条生产商之一。他每天都为他在深水埗和张沙湾的三家刘记餐厅的工薪阶层的顾客准备新鲜食材。

Employing an old method rarely used now, he sits at the end of a 1.5-meter bamboo pole, nimbly bouncing on it to pound balls of dough on a workbench underneath.

他仍沿用着如今很少见旧方法,坐在一个1.5米长的竹竿的末端,灵活地弹跳在它上面,使在工作台下面的面被揉成一团。

"We’ve been doing this for all these years and have developed an emotional connection to it," Lau says, explaining why he adheres to traditional methods."There is a satisfaction in the work."

“这些年来,我们一直在这样做,并与它建立了情感联系,”刘德华解释说,他为什么坚持传统的方法。“工作中有一种满足感。”

Customers across his restaurants slurp more than 500 bowls of fresh egg noodles a day.The best-selling dishes come with wonton-shrimp and pork dumplings-or are liberally sprinkled with dried shrimp roe, harking back to Hong Kong’s origins as a fishing village."It’s fresh. You feel it’s much better than anywhere else," says 17-year-old student Gavin Lee, who prefers Lau’s creations over food from Hong Kong’s mega-chains.

在他的餐馆里,每天500多碗新鲜鸡蛋面提供给顾客。最畅销的菜通常搭配虾馅混沌、猪肉饺子或足量的虾籽,回溯到香港起源于一个渔村的历史足迹。“这是新鲜的。你会觉得它比其他任何地方的都好,”17岁的学生加文·李(Gavin Lee)说,他更喜欢刘德昌的制作,而不是香港巨型连锁店的食物。

But despite the steady stream of loyal visitors, Lau says rising rents and wages are a challenge.He fears the next generation will not take up the mantle, admitting the work can be "hard and tedious".

但尽管有源源不断的忠实顾客,刘德昌表示,租金和工资上涨是一个挑战。他担心下一代人将不再承担责任,认为这项工作“艰难而乏味”。

There’s also pressure from Hong Kong’s lucrative noodle empires with branches all over the city.The popular Tam’s Yunnan Rice Noodles chain, known for its variety of spicy broth bases and customizable toppings, was recently sold to Japanese restaurant operator Toridoll for HK$1 billion.Tsui Wah, which started as a small cafe in 1967, has also grown into a multimillion-dollar mega-chain, serving Hong Kong staples alongside more modern alternatives.

还有来自香港利润丰厚的面条帝国的压力。广受欢迎的Tam公司云南米线连锁店最近以10亿港元的价格卖给了日本餐厅经营者。Tsui Wah自1967年起源于一家小型咖啡馆,如今已发展成一个价值数百万美元的连锁超市,提供香港的各种主食,以及更多的现代替代品。

But food writer Janice Leung Hayes says independent businesses like Lau’s still survive because of a sense of nostalgia and classic flavors."They have never gone out of fashion. So, I do feel like, even though there are big chains trying to dominate, the small ones still have a chance," Leung says.

但美食作家Janice Leung Hayes说,像刘氏这样的独立企业仍然存在,因为它有怀旧和经典的味道。“它们从未过时。”所以,我确实觉得,即使有大的连锁店想要占据主导地位,小公司仍然有机会,”Leung说。

Hong Kong’s noodle culture reflects its history as a city of migrants from all over China as well as its colonial history.

香港的面条文化反映了它作为一个来自中国各地的移民城市的历史,以及它的殖民历史。

关键字:香港

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